Friday 26 December 2014

Italian trio (Luce e Limoni, Tartufo, Ciccheti) captures holiday dining prizes, Brasserie Gustave offers French respite

December is always a madcap month;  Inevitably the busiest for the social diary, this year it also coincided with a particularly awful time at work requiring dedication to the first half of my work/life balance.  Ergo, a wealth of potential, distinct blog entries are crunching down into two summaries.

Today, the highlights of the holiday dining out.  Tomorrow, the cultural and activity highlights.

Luce e Limoni - My favourite new discovery of 2014 finished the year as well as it started it.  I had two festive holiday meals here, and both parties were delighted.  Although in at least one case, vast quantities of their fine Fiano wine gilded the lily.  The large shell pasta stuffed with crab and the swordfish in a breadcrumb, herb and pecorino crust were the superlatives, but there wasn't a complaint across the two dinners.  Add great service.  I'm by no means a regular, but I have been here enough for the staff to recognise me.  They took special care not to ignore us when big groups could have dominated their attention one night, and ended our meal with free limoncello another.  True Sicilian hospitality to go along with the authentic food.

Tartufo - Another return to a discovery from earlier this year.  It's exceptionally difficult to find restaurants open on Christmas Eve in London.  Tartufo's location within a hotel (11 Cadogan Gardens) forces its opening, and its location a stone's throw from Sloane Square made it perfect for dinner before midnight mass at St. Mary's Bourne Street nearby.  The starter of rabbit rolled in pancetta was the best rabbit dish I've had anywhere, any time, and the conte di cavour was the same memorable chocolate indulgence as on my first visit.  If anything, the menu has become even more resolutely Italian, moving away from the Franco-Italian fusion that was this place's original signature.  Best of all: three courses for £35, four for £40; a steal for this part of town and probably the best value for money of any of these restaurants.

Ciccheti - This bustling hot spot on Piccadilly, just off the Circus, bases its menu around the Venetian concept of small plates of snacks they will nibble in bars on the way home for dinner.  Essentially, Venetian tapas. Meatballs, small pizzas, griddled prawns, arancini (deep fried rice balls), prosciutto, grilled vegetables, etc.  All done with a deft hand and authentic flavours.  My one complaint: there's no "assorted feast" option to make it easy for you to order a variety.  I wouldn't go back here for a formal meal ... both restaurants above are better and this place is very loud ... but it's a great concept for a large group and it's a quality find in a part of town reknown for tourist rip-offs.

Brasserie Gustave - I decided to give my husband a break from the Italian onslaught with this well-reviewed French brasserie in Chelsea.  Resolutely traditional in menu, wine list and the preparation of key dishes (steak tartare, veal diane, crepes Suzette) at your table.  My french onion soup and steak tartare were exemplary.  This is the kind of food you dream about finding in Paris, and rarely do.  The prices on the wine list, however, make this a pricey choice if you're doing a long, boozy catch-up lunch with friends; though the staff is happy to let you linger and end your lunch as the clock approaches 6pm.

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