Tuesday 12 February 2008

Caribbean offers more variety than you'd expect: Additional highlights from the cruise

Diversity is not a term I would have instictively given to the Caribbean before visiting the region. We've all drunk enough from the well of popular culture to think we know what to expect: tropical islands, colourful buildings, great beaches, a population primarily of African descent, a bit of piracy and a lot of sugar cane. And yes, that's all there. But the impression I'm left most strongly with, after two cruises through the region, is the broad variety.

Caribbean islands are disinctly different in their topography, populations, culture and offerings to the tourist. I've spent so little time in each place that I can't claim much expertise in defining those differences, but it's obvious they're there. This is probably the best excuse possible for opting for a cruise. Whilst you could spend an idyllic fortnight on any one island, you'd miss the heady variety the region offers.

So, in addition to the favourites cited in the past two blogs, here are a few other highlights, notes and tips from this trip's ports of call.

Developing v. Developed World
Travellers should remember that the Caribbean, although long the playground of wealthy nations, is actually made up by a bunch of developing economies. The commercial centre of Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, and the new cruise port in Grand Turk disguise that with their well maintained, upscale tourist areas. Port of Spain, Trinidad, is a major metropolis dotted with shiny glass office buildings at its core, where St. John's Antigua (at left) is filled with weathered buildings that look like they've been gently collapsing of a century. But in many other places you get the sort of good natured chaos, litter-strewn byways, potholed roads and ramshackle buildings I've seen on my visits to Africa. Grenada is particularly poignant, with so many buildings still standing roofless due to hurricane damage. This chaotic shabbiness is nothing to be scared of; use common sense and I think you're as safe here as in any big city in the world. You do, however, need to adapt your expectations. This is the real Caribbean, not the Disney version.

Shopping Mecca
These people take "duty free" seriously. Alcohol and tobacco abound at every port. But the real buy here is jewelry, and the place to buy it is St. Thomas. When I visited here more than a decade ago, I remembered a main street with a variety of shops. No longer. Clearly, the jewelry sells. Because Charlotte Amalie must be 90% jewelry shops, a quantity and density I've never seen before. I'm sure there are more than 100 outlets. Although, like the tiny shops on Florence's Ponte Vecchio, it seems that some people own multiple shops. Like traps spread to catch animals in the forest, it's pretty tough to run this gauntlet for more than a couple of hours without finding yourself reaching for a credit card you had no intention of using. I ended up buying a Philip Stein watch at about 15% below American prices and half of what I would have paid in the UK. Of course, I had no intention of buying a new watch, but these things happen...

The Island of Pearls
Isla Margarita is part of Venezuela, and instantly feels culturally different from the rest of the Caribbean. This is definitely South America, from the Spanish faces to the latino beats coming out of every radio. Known as the island of pearls because those gems were so abundant in colonial days you could pick them up on the beaches where they washed up, and the natives draped themselves with strands of them. While not quite so prolific today, the pearl beds still yield a lot of jewellry for sale all over the island. Again, my credit card made an unscheduled appearance. But the multi-layered strand of multi-coloured, small, irregular pearls I purchased was too unique to pass up.

No Need for Tours
The cruise companies are relentless at selling day excursions for each port of call. And in most cases, it's a good idea. Most cruise ports project from urban areas. While you might get shopping within an easy walk, beaches usually require some transport. Two notable exceptions: Grand Turk and Isla Margarita. In both cases, I had pre-booked excursions and was then rather irritated to see exquisite beaches a few hundred yards from the ship. In both places, there's absolutely no need to plan for anything but a short walk. And both have shopping as well, Isla Margarita in a long line of thatched booths, Grand Turk in a shining new mall. That said, the tours I took in both places were fantastic, so I have no regrets. But it would have been nice to know in advance that I had the nearby option.

The New Florida
The charming, and still fairly undeveloped, island of Bonaire seems to be becoming a haven for American retirees. The guides on our snorkelling tour were Americans who had come to the island to enjoy the weather, and stretch their budgets. One of them told me his government pension didn't stretch to survival up north, but worked well down there. There are signs everywhere for new housing developments. A small place a mile or so from the beach, evidently, can be had for US$120,000. The island is far enough south that it's out of the main hurricane belt, so probably not a bad investment. Bonaire is not an attractive place if your back is to the coast. It's a scrubby, flat sand spit of an island with little vegetation, though flamingos dabbling in inland pools add colour. But turn your face to the sea, and you're drenched with beauty. I certainly wouldn't mind spending my golden years here.

There's a small bar in the main town, really just a bunch of thatched huts at the end of a pier, at which I can envision myself becoming a regular as I write my memoirs and entertain tourists with tales of my colourful life. Sadly, I suspect that by the time I'm ready to retire, Bonaire will be built up, no longer a deal, well populated and looking a lot like its neighbour Aruba. Which is a bit too much like Dallas on the Caribbean for my tastes.






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