Modern Barcelona is a dream for business exhibitions

Considering that it has founding myths going back to Hannibal, was a thriving Roman port and has a historic district called the Gothic quarter, it's ironic that my top impression of Barcelona is ... modernity.

Hip and trendy, elegant and cool, its dominant architectures are 19th century or modern tower.  It's full of cutting-edge interior design that makes bold statements, but doesn't take itself too seriously.  Its people, too, seem effortlessly chic, scrupulously tailored and well buffed.  You certainly don't get the impression that you're in a country at the heart of the Euro crisis, with 25% unemployment.  And, in a sense, you're not.  Because Catalonia is a district that's always been distinct from the rest of Spain, whether in political reality or the native belief.  There's a separate language, different culinary traditions and, exemplified by local boy Antoni Gaudi, an indigenous style.

It's a magnificent place to visit, and I can't believe I didn't make it sooner.  (I spent 24-hours there on a business trip in the mid-'90s, but that barely counts.)

I've just returned from six days in this capital of cool, half work and half play.  First, overviews of both halves before I settle in to the serious business of architecture and dining, which are the city's tourism crown jewels.

The view from the desk in my room,
enlivened by a trendy lamp

I started out about two miles north of the city centre, where a new, purpose-built convention centre sits on a featureless strip of Mediterranean coast with a power plant looming on the horizon.  Gartner IT Expo moved here when Cannes' palais des festivals shut down for a major renovation, and I suspect it's not going back.  Because while this facility might lack the stunning views of the croisette and the convenience of tripping down its stairs right into a historic district, from a trade show perspective it's a vast improvement.  A gorgeous facility with plenty of space, light and connectivity.  Much closer to the airport than that beautiful but pricey trek from Nice to Cannes.  Plus a convention centre staff that was a good deal less surly than the Cannes team, and far better canapés at the show floor cocktail parties.  (warm croquetas, jamon iberico and stuffed olives vs. stale vol-au-vent and cold mini pizzas.) Hotel options are also much better.  Rather than trying to do business in one of the grand Victorian palaces or wedge your team into small places built for tourism, you're in purpose-built business hotels.

We set up at the Barcelona Princess, just across from the exhibition centre.  High marks for free, fast WiFi in both rooms and public areas, a desk with a good view and plenty of conveniently-placed power outlets for recharging kit.  Bonus points for all the natural light from one whole wall of windows and an innovative use of space.  My room was in the sharp, triangular corner of the building, made most of by placing the bathroom there, with a triangular stone shower room with a rectangular window cut at eye level to look out over the urban scene.  Points off for heating.  Stone, tile, wood and glass come together for a sleek, high-design look, but they're cold materials.  If you're going to dominate your space with them, you need to compensate with artificial heat.  Which the Princess did not.  Even kicking the in-room heat up to 30 degrees (that's 86 in American), undressing to use that shower was a bracing experience.

The only real drawback is that you are in a district without a lot of character.  It's a 10-minute, 10 euro plus taxi ride to get anywhere distinctive.  Which doesn't seem like a lot, but when you've been on your feet all day and have just wrapped 12 solid hours of corporate dynamism, the idea of room service and watching a film on your iPad competes favourably with grabbing the local colour.  We stayed in the first night and went out the other two.

No wild nights, however.  They eat late in Barcelona, which suits the trade show schedule. Although, interestingly, I think international business is changing things.  On my first and only business trip in the '90s our 11pm dinner start was a concession to American visitors, and natives were regularly out until 2.  This trip, starting dinner around 10 and wrapping just after midnight seemed the norm for visitors and natives alike.

By the time we got back to the hotel, with its austere and rather basic bar, everyone headed to bed.  Unlike Cannes, where I am convinced the long tradition of British tourism inspired the French to build bigger hotel bars and keep them open to the wee hours, milking convention-goers out of their cash one 12 euro glass of beer at a time.  Whatever the reason, despite the late dining hours I got a lot more sleep at a Spanish-hosted trade show than a French one.  Leaving me much fresher for the long weekend to follow.