Sunday 7 March 2010

Hibiscus and Die Fledermaus the highlights of an indulgent week

It was an embarrassment of riches this week as I dined in three fine restaurants, had great seats at the opera, scored a series of successes at work and test drove a Jaguar. This, one can’t help suspecting, is the way life would be all the time if someone quadrupled my salary. The reality, however, was just a lucky intersection of events.


First, the restaurants.


We begin at the Oxo Tower, where I haven’t dined since before Harvey Nichols took over management. The department store folks are famous for their in-store restaurants, and they’ve successfully translated the formula to this Thames-side location. A classy bar with elegant cocktails delivered with precision and the proper chill (not always a given in London), brisk and efficient service and a cosmopolitan menu of classic, Continental cuisine served with a bit of flair. My foie gras starter was excellent, the sea bream on a bed of salsify that followed a light and healthy counterpoint. My French host took control of the wine list and approved of the Sancerre that soon made its way to us.


But the real appeal here is the view. Positioned between Waterloo and Blackfriars Bridges on the South Bank, the Oxo Tower boasts one of the best panoramas in London, enhanced by an outside wall that’s entirely glass. St. Pauls, magnificently illuminated, dominates the scene but is just one of the delights to drink in. There are no deals here and the a la carte menu is pricey. It’s not a place I would go on my own outside of expense accounts unless I wanted to impress a visitor with an iconic London experience. In that case, acknowledge that you’re paying a premium for the view and enjoy.


Next, to the Paternoster Chophouse. This outpost of the Conran empire is a dependable spot for a business lunch close to my office. Even closer is the London stock exchange, thus perhaps no surprise that the menu is unabashedly male. Lots of beef, a pie of the day, roasts of all sorts and traditional puddings. Everything a la carte, and you’ll need to dip into the list for vegetables because nothing comes with anything else. It’s boisterous, functional and expensive. While I enjoy getting taken here on business lunches, it’s not a place I in which would ever spend my own money, as there’s far better value and atmosphere to be had elsewhere.


One of those places being the soul-soothing Hibiscus. French chef Claude Bosi surprised the world when he first set up shop in Lludlow, a picturesque town on the Welsh borders. Make no mistake, while picture-postcard pretty, this is a backwater that hasn’t seen much by way of the world’s attention since Prince Arthur had the misfortune to die young within its castle, ceding his throne (and his new bride) to the younger brother who would become Henry VIII. Bosi turned the Lludlow Hibiscus into a two-Michelin starred phenomenon and triggered a foodie revolution that sparked a variety of gourmet imitators in the town and made it a culinary destination for Londoners looking for variety. The Northwestern Girls … aficionados of food, drink and travel that we are … had always meant to get there for a weekend. But before we got the chance, Bosi decided to move to London, and the Michelin people awarded the new location the same stars as the old.


While not as picturesque, the location just off Regent Street is a lot easier to get to. And thanks to a Top Table deal of four courses plus a glass of champagne for £48.50, falls into the decent value for money category. The dining room is a soothing, quiet haven of neutral tones, enlivened by some exquisite pieces of blown glass initially setting the tables. The staff whisks from table to table with calm and friendly efficiency, always taking the time to explain what you’re eating and where it’s sourced from, leaving you with the impression of a team that really cares about what’s coming out of the kitchen, and whether or not you’ll enjoy it.


The discount deal had us choosing of a very limited menu, but we were satisfied with the cauliflower volute, John Dory and two sweets. Even more satisfied when the promised courses were complemented with little extras. Ironically, it was these we remembered most. The hearty home-made bread studded with raisins, paired with organic Welsh butter light with salt. The amuse bouche of a creamy soup served in an emptied egg shell, thick at the bottom with a tahini paste laced with the flavours of North Africa. And, girls being girls, we were particularly impressed that the chocolates that arrived with our fresh mint tea were provided as a separate plate for each of us. No matter how close your friends, it’s good not to have to share chocolate. We all agreed that we’d happily return here, and we were each mightily tempted by the chef’s seasonal menu at for £70. But that will have to wait for another month, when the bank account is less in need of Top Table deals.


Best value for money of the week, however, must go to a production of Die Fledermaus at the Windsor Royal Theatre. I hadn’t been here for at least a decade, and should be embarrassed by the omission. One of the regional

theatres that often auditions shows contemplating a West End (London) run, it frequently features big

names in both revivals and original drama. It’s also a tiny place, with fewer than 30 rows on the main floor and just one balcony, meaning that you’re practically on top of the action.


The Opera della Luna company gave us a witty, funny and fast-paced reworking of Strauss’ operetta, translated into English and updated to fit easily into the 21st century. Both acting and voices were strong, and at points I laughed so hard my sides ached. It was a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon. And considering that the most expensive tickets in the house were £30 (as opposed to around £40 for the cheapest seats at the Royal Opera), I felt that I’d uncovered quite a bargain, too.


The Jaguar I’d been driven around in earlier in the weekend couldn’t be called a bargain. Probably not even value for money. But it sure had all the aura you expect of a luxury brand. I snuggled down in the leather seats, noted the elegant design of the dashboard and appreciated the smooth and powerful acceleration of the engine. Given that marketing is my trade, I perhaps appreciated even more the skill of the salesman and the way the whole experience at the dealership reinforced the ideas of sophistication, elegance and traditional Britishness.


I suspect that it will be quite a while before I’m a regular passenger in this car. Just as it will take some time before I rack up three luxury meals in under 48 hours again. But one can dream. If that EuroMillions lottery win ever comes through, I have the consolation of knowing that I will know how to spend it with grace and panache.

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